February 12, 2006 – Dominica

With an acceptable forecast in the morning, we headed out with double-reefed main and staysail. The sail combination was perfect, even at 22 knots on the deck. We had a boisterous reach in the passage between islands, but Skylark was great and the reward was a quiet sail along the west coast of Dominica in the sunshine. We arrived in Portsmouth harbour at 1630, having done 55 miles in 9 hours. About three miles out, we were met by Albert, who announced his services as our guide, produced his credentials as a member of the Indian River Tour Guides Association, and arranged to take us to Customs and on a tour the next morning.

The Dominican “boat boys” have come a long way from unruly Rastas to trained tour guides. Remember “Spaghetti”, our guide in 2001? Albert (note the cell phone) arrived punctually at 8:00 the next morning, and suggested we do the river tour before checking in, as the river is quieter and there is more animal life early in the morning. We didn’t see any animals, but the thick, colorful vegetation and intertwined tree roots were fascinating. He rowed us upstream about 3 miles, and as we floated back down, we passed boatloads of gringos, looking like a corporate team-building excursion, heading up. We were glad we had gone early to enjoy the quiet and solitude.

34 portsmouth
After clearing in, we moved the boat closer to town, and went ashore for a look around. Portsmouth looked as dowdy as it did five years ago, but the people were still friendly. We walked way down the beach to the Purple Turtle for lunch, then went back to the boat for a swim. Bill and Sharon on Makai (friends from Bonaire and Venezuela) invited us over for sundowners, where we met cruisers from another couple of boats, including a woman doctor who is teaching at the American Medical School in Portsmouth – a compromise with her husband, who wanted to cruise while she wanted to keep working. We also stopped to talk to Jeff and Sue, a couple from Calgary who are just starting out on an old CSY they bought in St. Martin. By their own admission they are complete neophytes -- an accident waiting to happen -- and its going to be a steep learning curve for them.

35 pirateship
We see many tall ships as we travel. They are becoming a popular way to cruise the islands, combining luxury and adventure. We passed this pirate ship, and wondered if it might be a prop for “Pirates of the Caribbean II”, presently being filmed in St. Vincent and Dominica.