March 5, 2006 – The Virgin Islands

We entered the British Virgin Islands through Round Rock Pass at about 0700, having crossed the Anegada Pass without taking a drop of water on the deck -- a pleasant change from the drenchings we've received on every previous leg of the trip north. By 0830 we were happily tying up to the dock at Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, to sleep for a few hours before checking in with Customs and Immigration.

The following day, after a good night’s sleep, we took advantage of the marina facilities to have showers, wash down the boat, fill our water tank, get some groceries, and browse the boutiques. Although this is still the British Virgin Islands, it feels comfortable to be back in “american” culture.

Similar to the Gulf Islands in area, the Virgins rate among the best sailing locations in the world. The distances are not too great, the breeze is constant, there are many beautiful bays and beaches, and abundant facilities catering to boaters. It is our third visit here, the first twenty-five years ago, when we bareboat chartered with Rick and Sharon. Little did we know then that we would be back with our own boat!

We feel this time a bit like horses returning to the barn – heading more or less in a straight line, without much unnecessary dallying. In Virgin Gorda Sound we retraced our 25-year-old steps to Bitter End Yacht Club, where we had Orma’s belated birthday dinner. We visited friends of friends who have a home on Little Bay, a beautiful property which has been in their family for years. They were recently offered $16 M for the land, but they are not selling.

After a lovely sail down Sir Francis Drake Channel, we entered Trellis Bay and squeezed into an anchoring spot amidst the myriad of mostly occupied mooring balls available for rent. Most bareboat charterers like the convenience and security of a mooring ball, and don’t mind paying the $25 every night. And there are thousands of bareboat charterers in the Virgin Islands! Our anchoring spot was close to the beach, right off De Loose Mongoose, a little restaurant which beamed free WiFi into the anchorage. For the first time since Margarita, we did emails and used the internet from the boat.

In Roadtown Harbour the next day, we had lunch ashore while we waited to have a propane tank filled, then motored over to West End and took a mooring in the crowded bay at Soper’s Hole so we could clear out with BVI Customs. While we were ashore, a front came through with 30-knot gusts of wind from the west (into the Bay). We had a wet and wild dinghy ride back to Skylark, and an anxious time as the closely-packed boats swirled around in the wind. No harm was done, and things settled down during the evening. We were happy to be on a mooring that night.

Crossing into the US Virgin Islands, we checked in at Cruz Bay and enjoyed a New York deli lunch in a smart new mall. In the USVI we saw many American kids working and/or vacationing. We think many of them were on a spring break from college. Because it was a busy, crowded bay, with many ferries coming and going, we decided to move on. The wind and weather in the islands was NE 15 – 20, seas 6 – 9 ft. in northern swells, so the water was pretty rough off the north side of St. John’s, and the lovely bays there were off limits that day.

We knew that Tom and Carole (Moonrise) were in the area. They are one of the couples we met when we were all heading south down the east coast of the USA over six years ago, and we have bumped into them all up and down the islands and in Venezuela and Bonaire. When we called their name on the VHF, sure enough they responded, and we had a chat on the radiol. Unfortunately, they were in a bay upwind of us, and we didn’t want to go back in the rough seas.
We proceeded on to Christmas Cove, a picturesque, protected, and quiet spot, which we enjoyed as much this time as we had six years ago on our way south. We wonder why the charterers haven’t discovered it – maybe because there are no mooring balls planted here.

Friday, March 10, From the log: “Quiet night in a pretty anchorage. Motorsailed to St. Thomas in a strong easterly (jib alone) to the port of Charlotte Amalie, and anchored off the town. Only one cruise ship in today, but still the town was busy and traffic was fierce, such a change from our first visit in 1981, when the place was just a sleepy village.”

We spent two more days in Charlotte Amalie, watching cruise ships come and go, and browsing in the many touristy shops along the waterfront. Since we are not in the market for gold, jewels, or t-shirts, we didn’t buy much. Internet at an internet café is very expensive here -- $6 USD for 15 minutes – so we picked up our email, but didn’t spend more time than necessary on the net.


On Sunday morning we walked a few blocks to a large church. We arrived at 0940 to find that the service had started at 0900 -- but no problem, as it lasted until noon! We met some friendly people there and enjoyed a lively service. After church we went to a French restaurant for a delicious meal – maybe the best we’ve had on the trip! – then walked uphill through some beautiful old residential areas. Back at the boat, we lifted the dinghy in preparation for an early start in the morning, and had dinner aboard, enjoying the nighttime view of the hillsides studded with sparkling lights, truly a sight to remember.